January 1st 2005 - AKEMASHITE OMEDETOU! (Happy New Year!)


Just dropped my parents at the airport - they've got to go home now :( Can't believe how quickly this week went when them. I'm pretty tired, as I had to get up at half 3 in the morning to meet them at the hotel. Probably will have a little sleep this afternoon.

Anyway, like I said, this week was fantastic, we had a wonderful time ^_^ And New Year was certainly....something else. Thought I might write in more detail about what me and my parents got up to here, as I haven't had a chance to all week...

SUNDAY - Parents arrived, 9pm. Picked them up at airport. After checking in, went to the Irish pub for a few drinks. Mum and Dad experience Japanese hospitality for the first time (bowing, always smiling, always very helpful).

MONDAY - Come round to pick up parents from hotel at noon. As anticipated, parents are jetlagged and have only just woken up. Take them by bus to my apartment and treat them to sushi and onigiri for lunch (I didn't make them, I bought them from the supermarket). We all exchange Christmas presents and for me, this feels like Christmas morning!

Me and me mam, outside the Kaikan (the dormitory where I live)

Afterwards, I take parents to the Kokai-Retro-Toori so they can have a bit of a "traditional" Japanese shopping experience. My parents are thrilled by all the interesting sights (especially the fish market), and with how friendly everyone is. They also get to sample a lot of traditional Japanese food stuffs.

The Kokai-Retro-Toori (semi-traditional Japanese market place)

At night, we go out to a nomihoudai/tabehoudai izakaya for a Bounenkai (End Year Party) with my academic advisor's students. A really enjoyable night - I act as interpreter between students and parents for the whole time. Parents and several students get pretty drunk. Parents can't believe how good the quality of the food and sake is. Food includes of nabe-ryouri (boiled fish and veg, a traditional winter dish), horsemeat soup, raw salmon and uni (sea urchin). Parents really enjoy chatting to Matsuurasan, who's pretty drunk and therefore has the confidence to use English to them. After meal, parents treat students to chocolate oranges and a round of drinks at the Irish Pub. Is the first time the students have experienced an "English-style" pub, and the English tradition of buying a round of drinks as thanks.

At the Bounenkai (End-year party) with student friends - Kitanosan, Nobukunisan, Akisan and another guy who's just weird and never talks.


TUESDAY - Go to Kumamoto Castle. Is first time I've actually been inside the castle buildings. We see the original turret (which you have to remove your shoes to enter), as well as the main structure which was rebuilt after being burned down. Very informative museum enclosed inside main building. Parents and I fascinated by how Japanese traditional wooden buildings like this are built without using nails - pieces all slot together.

The last remaining original turret of Kumamoto castle

The rebuilt Kumamoto Castle

Samurai Guard!

In the evening, go to Yoshi-Fugu, a fugu (blowfish/pufferfish) restaurant, which is a speciality food of Kumamoto. Eating fugu can be dangerous, as if it is prepared incorrectly it can lethally poison you. Have about eight courses of fugu (including raw fugu, boiled fugu and fried fugu), and survive. Fugu is more about hype than taste - taste is actually fairly bland. Restaurant is very traditional and we have to sit on the floor, which is bad for Dad and his back, so he doesn't enjoy it. He's also hungover from the night before so doesn't do the fugu justice.

Eating fugu.

WEDNESDAY - Whole day of shopping at Shimotori and Kamitori. Parents really enjoy it - buy loads of things, mainly as souvenirs for other people. Parents both particularly like the Hyaku-en (hundred-yen) shop and stationary shop, which has lots of traditional gifts. Dad treats me to a wonderful brush-pen for writing Japanese calligraphy. Dad also likes Besto-Denki, the huge electrical store. Treats me to some new speakers for my laptop ^_^ Mum likes the clothes shops. She finds the funny Engrish (Japanese "English") slogons on the T-shirts really funny. Only just stops herself from buying a shirt proclaiming "RERISH THE THOUGHT."

In the evening, go to Juuhachi-ya, a basashi (horse meat) restaurant. Horse meat is another Kumamoto speciality. Has a far more relaxed and casual atmosphere than Yoshi-Fugu, as well as chairs, so parents enjoy it more. Meal includes about 8 courses of horse meat (raw, boiled, burgers etc.) as well as a two-hour nomihoudai. Food is delicious, as is the sake.

Me eating basashi

THURSDAY - Day has disappointing start, as Tatsuda Nature Park is closed. Instead, parents come to my apartment for an hour of drinking tea, and to see a bit of Japanese residential area. We then go to Ace Suupa, so parents can experience Japanese supermarket, as well as to buy souvenirs and sushi for lunch.

In the evening, go to Donna Mama's, which is a two-hour tabehoudai/nomihoudai joint. Food is a mixture of Japanese (nabe-ryouri, breaded potato, egg fried rice, green beans, fried chicken) and Western (spaghetti, pizza and chips). Once again, atmosphere is very lively and casual.

FRIDAY - Almost everywhere is closed as it is New Year's Evening, however Suizenji Park is open so we take a bus there. It pours down with rain but the park is still pretty - it consists of a sculptured landscaped shaped to resemble a mountain range, overlooking a pond filled with ducks and enormous koi carp. There are also several Buddhist temples (otera) and Shinto shrines (jinja) around the park where we can practise the ritual of paying respects at a shrine - ringing the bell, putting a coin in the collection box, clapping hands twice and bowing (this will all come in handy for New Year). However, Suizenji's most striking feature is its huge number of tourist souvenir shops. Spend a while wandering around those, and then go back to Kumamoto City by tram - the first time I've ridden one.

Suizenji Park. You can see how the landscape has been sculpted to resemble mountains and the ocean, like in a Chinese painting.

Rinsing my hands to purify myself before making a wish at the shrine.

Awesome pic of the koi carp in the Suizenji Park pond. My Dad is such a good photographer...

For lunch, we go to Ban Ban Sushi, a kaiten-zushi (conveyor-belt sushi) restaurant where all dishes cost just 100 yen. Parents can't believe how cheap the food is. Have a great time sampling different sushi - I manage to eat more than both of my parents!



It's New Year's Eve, so after a nap and sake at the hotel we go to Kumamoto Castle where they are holding a Count Down for the New Year. This is actually so unspectacular it's funny - after a huge build-up including live bands and movies, the New Year is marked by the setting off of five tiny fireworks. And then everyone goes home!



SATURDAY - New Year's Day, and my parents' last day in Japan. We have a very traditional Japanese New Year's Day. We start by having osechi-ryouri at the hotel - a traditional Japanese breakfast only eaten on New Year's Day. The food is outstanding - fine quality raw tuna, prawns, sweet fruits and vegetable, delicious fish soup, and black beans sprinkled with gold leaf, among many other delicious foods. The waitresses are all dressed in kimono, Japanese traditional music is playing and the windows overlook the moutains and Kumamoto Castle, so everything feels really Japanese!

Eating Osechi-Ryouri (traditional Japanese New Year breakfast)

After breakfast, we head to Fujisakigu Shrine, the largest shrine in Kumamoto City. It is absolutely packed with Japanese of all ages who have come to be blessed for the New Year. Unlike a sombre Christian festival, the shrine has a very festive atmosphere - there are stalls everywhere selling food and lucky charms, as well as games that might be found at a funfair! In the shrine itself, we get to witness the Japanese at their most superstitious and religious. First, they purify themselves by rinsing their hands and mouths in a water fountain. Then, they perform all the usual rituals at the shrine (hand clapping, bowing etc) and are blessed by a priest, one by one. They also burn last year's good luck charms and daruma (lucky wishing dolls) in a bonfire outside the shrine, symbolising the completion of last year's wishes. Japanese of all ages take part in these rituals, and not only enjoy it but really seem to believe that they will bring good luck - they queue for ages to purify themselves and to be blessed.

Fujisakigu Shrine entrance on New Year's Day - packed!!
 

Burning last year's lucky charms and daruma (wishing dolls) outside the shrine.

All shrines have a gate like this (torii), which symbolise crossing over into sacred grounds.

After a day of wandering around some of the other smaller shrines and a nap at the hotel, we go out to the Irish bar for a last drink, which is thankfully open. We also eat some of their delicious mixed cheese and mochi mentai pizza. It's a great way to end a wonderful week.
 

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