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I have been in Japan for four days now, and already I have experienced and
learned so much. There is already so much to tell that I don't think I can
remember it all, but I will try.
My first thoughts of Japan were not positive. I arrived, tired, jetlagged
and moody, to a large but bare room infested with cockroaches. Kisako, who
volunteered to be my tutor, tried to make me feel welcome and secure, but
I was feeling too exhausted, overwhelmed, frightened, worried and
generally homesick to really be comfortable. All I could think about was
how much I was already missing England, my family and Phil, and how I
wanted to be home. I remember, as the University staff kindly drove us
from the airport to our accommodation in the night, looking at the
surroundings and thinking that, in the dark, Japan looked so much like
England. Only, it wasn't England. I was a long, long way from England, and
I wouldn't be seeing my home again for a long time. That thought brought a
lump to my throat.
The next few days were tough too. The jetlag had not passed, which didn't
help improve my mood, plus everything was still too new and strange. I
kept feeling that I would not be able to cope for a whole year here, in
this very alien country. No familiar English food, no pubs, etc. etc.
But slowly, things have really begun to settle down, and now I am
beginning to open my eyes and realise that my situation really is not that
bad. Far, far from it. From what I've experienced so far, I can say that
Kumamoto is one of the most interesting, happy and fascinating cities to
be in, and the people here are perhaps the kindest I have ever met.
I don't know where to start, but I'll try and break down all my
experiences so far:
ACCOMODATION: As I said, the room IS full of cockroaches (and as I
found out last night, gigantic spiders). However, the bugs (or mushi, as
the Japanese call them) only come out at night, so they're not a problem
during the day. And there's lots of very cool bugs around too, like the
praying mantis I found on my first night I stayed here (the Japanese
students said it was very cute to see me so fascinated by a creature
that's so common here). But I digress...the room. It is big, much bigger
than the room at Durham, with tonnes of storage space, a little electric
hob, a fridge/freezer, a cooler, an ensuite toilet and shower, and even a
balcony! Luxury compared to Durham. The rent's cheap too. Each room also
has a phone with which we can telephone each other within the campus
grounds.
One thing that bothered me a little though is that, unlike in Trevelyan
College, the rooms are arranged in long corridors, with doors that swing
shut, which means that socialisation is not as easy. Coupled with the fact
that there is no student bar of any kind!
THE CITY: Is something very, very different. I still haven't been
around most of it (it’s huge), but what I've seen so far has been
incredibly interesting. We have spent most of our time in the city along
two roads, Kamitori and Shimotori. However, when I say roads, what I mean
is something like a cross between a road and a shopping mall. The roads
are set up like shopping malls, long and straight roofed corridors with
shops on each side (and each shop is massive, most have at least two
floors and some have far more). However, the road opens up to the outside,
and cars even drive through! It’s quite surreal to be walking through a
shopping mall, and then have to stop at the traffic lights as a line of
cars pass (one thing about Japan in general is that jay-walking is
illegal, and is not done at all)!
Even though Kumamoto is not a major city by Japan standards, it is clearly
lively and far, far more advanced than anything in England (like the rest
of Japan). You can get pretty much get anything you want in the shops, and
in Kumamoto prices are incredibly low, normally much cheaper than England!
Our favourite shop is probably the hyaku-en shop, where almost everything
costs just 100 yen (about 50p!). We've stocked up on crockery, pots and
pans, stationary and pretty much everything else there.
Transport around the city is very efficient. Bus services are excellent
and the buses themselves are clean and have announcements to tell you
where the next destination is.
FOOD: One snag about the university accommodation is that, unlike
Durham (but like most universities), you have to cook for yourself. I'm
not good at cooking, so up to now I've been living on Cup-Ramen (like pot
noodles, but larger, more nutritious and more tasty). But I'm attempting
to be more adventurous in the future. At Ace Supermarket, where we all go
to buy food, I bought rice, noodles and vegetables with some vague idea in
mind that I'd try my hand at some cooking. Ace Supermarket is pretty good
- the food's not too expensive, and there is western food like pasta and
(hooray) breakfast cereal, although the western stuff is more expensive,
naturally.
I've also eaten out quite a bit too. Tonight, our tutors took us out to
Ringerland, a Champon noodle restaurant, which was delicious. In fact, so
far I've loved pretty much all the Japanese food I've tried so far -
onigiri (rice balls), ramen, bean-paste buns, hell even the short-grain
Japanese rice is somehow nicer than the long-grain rice back home.
Although I do miss my good old cup of milky English tea in the morning, I
know that I'll miss Japanese food very much when I get home!
PEOPLE: Before I came to Japan, I had one very clear expectation in
mind - that Japanese people would be cold, strict and generally not
friendly towards foreigners (which is like English people, I suppose). But
I've come to realise that nothing could be further from the truth.
Firstly, our tutors, particularly mine, Kisako. They have been
unbelievable. They have volunteered to give up all their free time to show
us around, help us fill out millions of forms, give us information, take
us out on shopping trips, take us to restaurants and so on. And they have
been nothing but exceptionally kind, patient, cheerful and helpful the
whole time. I think Kisako has been the best of all. She has been so
patient with my poor Japanese and so eager to encourage and help me, and
to take care of me in general. I really don't think there's a way I can
thank her enough. I only wish I was just as kind and helpful when Kisako
came to Durham last year.
Then there's the teachers and people in charge of the Kaikan. I've only
met two so far, the ones in charge of this international building, but
they have been so helpful and friendly so far - more so than most English
tutors I think! They've always made sure that we understand exactly what's
going on, to the point of saying everything in Japanese and then in
English for the benefit of us poor, language-deficient Brits. And they
don't make you feel small or stupid for asking questions, or for needing
help.
And then the people in general. One thing's certain: all the nice things
you've ever heard about Japanese people are all true. The ones I've met
are immensely polite, and will bend over backwards to help you, even if
you are a bumbling foreigner with a handful of Japanese phrases, and all
with a big smile on their faces. This was a shock after coming from
England, where people in shops treat you more as an inconvenience rather
than an honoured guest. Everyone bows to thank you, welcomes you and
offers to help you when you enter a shop and apologises profusely for not
being very helpful or quick (even if they were!). Their warmth, politeness
and hospitality really does put England to shame. We could learn a lot.
One other thing I was expecting was for all Japanese to be trendy,
label-loving clones with no individual quirky tastes, hence I was worried
that my dress sense might be regarded as very strange. Once again, I was
in for a surprise. The Japanese dress perhaps even more individually than
the British, yet more stylishly. And there is such an eclectic mix of
styles and tastes too. Along the streets of Kumamoto, you can all kinds of
people, from kids in school uniform to girls dressed in American fashions
to Punks and Goths to women in full kimono (that's really not an unusual
sight, to see kimono-clad women walking along with a mobile phone in hand.
Surreal, yet very Japanese!). One thing I won't forget was, at the city
hall, seeing a guy wearing a yellow and black striped T-shirt with a
fishnet top on over the top, bondage-style trousers complete with spiky
studs and zips everywhere, piercings all over the earlobes, tenderly and
proudly playing with his baby son/daughter. It was perhaps the cutest
thing I've ever seen.
And last night, I experienced the greatest random act of kindness of all.
Coming back from the supermarket in the evening, I got separated from my
friends and ended up losing my way back to the campus. Before I knew it, I
was completely lost. Using terrible Japanese, I tried asking directions
from people, but nobody could help me.
Eventually, I ended up at a building which I later found out to be Toukai
University. When I asked the attendant for directions, he led me into the
university itself. There, he told my problem to one of the teachers, who,
after a long time, emerged from the office carrying a map which had
obviously just been printed from the Kumamoto University website (he'd
gone and looked it up for me). He asked me, "How are you getting there?
Bike? Car?" When I told him I was walking, he left again, saying "Chotto
matte kudasai" (please wait a moment). When he came back, he was carrying
car keys, and said, "Come on...my car." He actually gave me a lift back to
the campus in his car!
I couldn't believe how kind he was, and although I thanked him and
apologised profusely, I didn't think that was enough for the help he'd
given me. I asked for his name, hoping to write to him and thank him
properly, but he wouldn't tell me. Clearly, he didn't want anymore thanks.
That was probably one of the kindest things a stranger has ever done for
me before. Something like that would probably never happen in England.
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